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There comes a time in almost every man's life when he feels the itch. No, not that itch. The itch, the urge, the pull, the veritable rite of passage that is buying a proper watch.

But what is a proper watch? To Esquire, it's one that shows you've made the effort, that you're no longer content telling the time from your mobile, that – yes – you've taken a big step toward actual, bona fide manhood.